| Regular India visitor Mandy BeckerKnox
remains entranced by ‘a glimpse of eternity’,
the Himalayas.
'Search for the kingdom of heaven
first and all the rest will come to you' ~ Jesus
There
are some places on the planet that exude an air of peace
and calm. In such a place you find the mind effortlessly
moves beyond itself and becomes attuned to the serenity
and beauty of the environment. In such a place you may
feel a real sense of “connectedness” or
“oneness” with the world around you and
deeply peaceful, touched by the beauty of the moment.
Everyday concerns are forgotten and time passing seems
an irrelevant concept. The moment stretches into eternity
and meditation is instantaneous and profound...once
you leave such a place you should never, ever forget
it.
Many of us go to great effort and expense to experience
places of astounding natural beauty or mythological
significance. Just a few moments in such a place evoke
spiritual qualities within ourselves – stillness,
expansiveness, peace, wonder – that would otherwise
remain buried or unacknowledged in our everyday lives.
This is one reason why the whole notion of pilgrimages
(or holidays as we’ll call them!) is so important
to so many cultures. For Tibetans, pilgrimage refers
to the journey from ignorance to enlightenment, from
self centeredness and materialistic preoccupations to
a deep sense of the interconnectedness of all life.
It is thought that by travelling to sacred sites, we
are brought into living contact with the deities and
energies of the place and we are able to receive their
blessings or offer our thanks. Whatever the reason for
embarking on a pilgrimage, when we return to our everyday
lives we do so with a greater capacity to see the unique
beauty in the human landscape, clarity into what is
actually important in life, and the ability to remain
inspired even when life is not perfect.
Cast your mind back for a moment...remember an experience
of such a place. Remember how you felt while you were
there...and observe now how you feel as you bring that
picture to mind. It's as if your whole being remembers!
The great yogi Swami Sivananda of Rishikesh in the foothills
of the Indian Himalayas reminds us to hold such places
close to our hearts and, rather than succumb to negative
thinking, to remember instead a landscape which inspires
us and brings us peace. Such a landscape is, “the
mighty Himalayas, the sacred Ganga, a lovely sunset,
the infinite blue sky...imagine the whole world and
your body floating like a straw in this vast ocean of
spirit. Feel the life of the whole world pulsating within
you...”
Once our minds get caught in a cycle of thinking that
doesn't lead to freedom or resolution, our negative
thoughts and emotions increase leading to further unhappiness.
Endlessly turning over our problems will never, ever
solve our problems! Inspiration comes when we remove
our preoccupation with ourselves. Swami Sivananda says,
“think instead of the Himalayas”.
Himalaya is a Sanskrit word which literally means
"Abode of Snow" – a term coined by the
ancient pilgrims of India. The Himalayan ranges cover
an astounding area of 612,021 sq km, passing through
the Indian States of Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh,
Uttar Pradesh, Sikkim and the Himalayan kingdoms of
Nepal and Bhutan. Beyond the Himalayan range is the
Tibetan Plateau – the roof of the world –
which forms the northern boundary.
People travel from around the world to visit the Himalayas
for many reasons. Being the world's highest mountain
chain, it is the “final frontier” for many
climbers and trekkers who spend tens of thousands of
dollars on a single expedition. The Nepalese Himalayas
contain the world's 14 highest peaks including Mt Everest
at 8850 metres. The traditional Nepalese name for Everest
is Sagarmatha, which means goddess of the sky. It is
here that the earth soars upwards to meet the sky and,
according to many Hindus, Buddhists and Jains, is the
literal abode of the gods!
The quaint English-style hill stations dotted through
the Himalayas offer a retreat from the heat of the Indian
plains, and there are the beautiful (but arduous) walks
along pilgrim routes or well trodden trekking circuits
through low valleys that abruptly rise up in high mountain
ranges. One of the highlights of my time in the Himalayas
was a helicopter ride in Sikkim. Seeing the Himalayas
from the air gives a completely different perspective.
On the ground the mountains challenge your strength,
determination, your resolve, your very ability to breathe!
From the air there is only the closeness and exhilaration
of the mountains.
Other attractions are the amazing array of orchids
and rhododendrons of the foothills in spring, and the
austere, but beautifully painted, monasteries perched
on hillsides with shy Buddhist monks who graciously
show you around and share their knowledge. Pilgrimages
are also made to the rapidly receding glaciers at the
source of some of the mightiest and holiest rivers in
the world high up in the Himalayas. And, of course,
there is Shangri-La, the mythical paradise some people
believe exists deep within the ranges. Whatever the
reason, a visit to the Himalayas is likely to change
you in some way forever.
More than any other landscape on earth, the Himalayas
are steeped in mythology and religion with many sites
and features of the landscape revered. Just being in
the mountains awakens your spirit and makes you aware
of your soul's yearning for oneness, to merge again
with the supreme and eternal soul of nature.
While I have studied yoga under various teachers and
gurus and gained much from my time with them, it is
my experiences in and of nature, particularly the Himalayas,
which continue to sustain me on my spiritual journey.
All human relationships have the potential to become
co-dependent which a normal aspect of living amongst
people, but co-dependence with a spiritual teacher does
not seem to lead to freedom for either the disciple
or the teacher. On the other hand, a relationship with
nature leads to autonomy, spiritual expansiveness and
a deep connection with both people and place.
Throughout history, many yogis have travelled to the
Himalayas and taken up residence in caves or other simple
dwellings. The modern yogi Krishnamacharya took many
pilgrimages into the Himalayas during his early years.
On one of these trips, he decided to find Sri Ramamohan
Brahmachari, a yoga teacher rumoured to live in the
mountains. Eventually, Krishnamacharya found Sri Brahmachari’s
school which consisted of a cave at the foot of Mount
Kailash in Tibet. Mount Kailash is the world's most
sacred site, venerated by four religions and billions
of people. It is thought to the eternal abode of Lord
Shiva, yet is seen by no more than a few thousand pilgrims
each year because of the extreme hardship involved in
getting there. Krishnamacharya spent seven years at
Mount Kailash studying the “Yoga Sutras of Patanjali”,
learning asanas and pranayama, and studying the therapeutic
aspects of yoga. At the end of his studies with Sri
Ramamohan, Krishnamacharya asked what the payment would
be – Ramamohan responded that Krishnamacharya
was to "take a wife, raise children and be a teacher
of Yoga". Incredibly, much of what Krishnamacharya
learnt at Mt Kailash has informed our understanding
and perception of yoga in the Western world! Krishnamacharya's
students included BKS Iyengar, Sri K Pattahbi Jois,
Indra Devi, TKV Desikachar and AG Mohan who went on
to become the most infleuntial yoga teachers of modern
times.
Of all the yogis of the Himalayas, the most enigmatic
is Haidakhan Wale Baba, the avatar made famous in Paramahansa
Yogananda's “Autobiography of a Yogi”. Acknowledged
as the eternal manifestation of Shiva in human form,
it is believed he neither takes birth nor dies, but
rather manifests at different times. His most recent
documented manifestation was between 1970 to 1984, when
he appeared in a holy cave at the foot of Kumaon Mount
Kailash in a remote village called Haidakhan. Many people
from all over the world have mystically been drawn to
Babaji through extraordinary events, dreams and visions.
In the mountains, there have been trekkers who have
wandered from the trail, or become lost in a snowstorm
who claim a person from nowhere appeared and helped
them find their way. During a trek through the foothills
of Annapurna in Nepal, I had such an experience. As
we wavered about which way to take, an Alsatian appeared
to us and accompanied us for a day, delivering us safely
to a village before nightfall. On arrival, the Alsatian
turned around and disappeared into the forest.
After reading “Autobiography of a Yogi”
at a tender age, I held romantic notions of travelling
to the Himalayas, effortlessly finding a guru and meditating
in a cave for many years before emerging with mystical
powers. On my first visits to India I was definitely
seeking something along these lines! A little more realistic
now, I share the Himalayan experience with others, taking
groups of yoga students to the mountains. With an intention
of exploring the inner realms, the mountains are a backdrop
to our yoga practices yet deeply inform everything we
think, feel and do. Some people, new to yoga, experience
the freedom and expansiveness of deep meditation for
the first time in the mountains, while others are awed
and inspired by their first glimpse of the sun's rays
on the mountains as the snowy Himalayan peaks are illuminated,
one by one, by pale dawn light. To see the sun rise
over the Himalayas is a mystical and transcendental
experience. It is a vision, an epiphany, an awakening,
a glimpse of eternity...
Thousands of Indian pilgrims share this view (at least
theoretically!) and make the 4am trip to Tiger Hill
just out of Darjeeling for a glimpse of the first rays
on Mount Khangchendzonga. Tiger Hill, pre-dawn, is like
being at a late night dance party with a really bad
sound system. People huddle around car stereos blaring
Bollywood hits and drink strong milk tea from little
plastic cups which they gulp down in a single mouthful
and discard with wild abandon while waiting for the
first light. The few Westerners among the crowd (including
us) are wrapped in beanies, scarves, shawls, blankets
from hotel beds, anything to keep warm! Expectations
run high and the crowd is excited. The light changes,
silhouettes briefly emerge as real people until a thick
mist closes in, obscuring any potential view of the
mountains. Tension mounts as the crowd prays for a glimpse
at least...and for a brief moment the mist parts and
an illuminated peak emerges...the crowd cheers and hugs
and cries with relief before rushing to the postcard
stand to purchase images of mountains (any mountain
range will do, most of the postcards are from Nepal!).
We leave Tiger Hill astounded at the intensity of the
people and their passion for their beloved Himalayas.
It is obvious to us though that to really experience
the Himalayas it is necessary to leave behind the crowds
and travel deeper into the mountains.
The roads into Sikkim, an autonomous state in the north
east of India, are precarious and dangerous. You look
down at deep river gorges, the car's wheels literally
centimetres from a fall to certain death. There is nothing
you can do but pray and surrender your fears. At every
hairpin bin on precarious mountain roads there are signs
to remind you of what is important in life: "Live
for today, arrive for tomorrow"; "Bridges
cross natural barriers", "Nature has everything
to meet man's needs, but not his greed"; "Be
in harmony with nature, culture and adventure";
"See green, save green" and, more ominously,
warnings of potential hazards: "You are approaching
slide area"; or even worse, "Sinking area
ahead".
There is an abundance of everything in Sikkim. The
landscape is lush and green, water pours from rock walls
causing landslides and roads to disappear down the sides
of mountains. Road workers in labour camps are kept
busy along the roadsides. They use their bare hands
as tools while their dirty, bedraggled babies sit in
the gutter, contentedly playing with stones. Huge cardamom
and ginger plants grow wild along the roadside. A village
man handed us samples through the car window and laughed
good naturedly as we innocently tasted them and an explosion
of sweet bitterness left us gasping.
Pelling is a tiny village with a panoramic vista of
the north eastern Himalayas. It is a deeply peaceful
place with only a few hotels and a monastery. A couple
of kilometres out of the village are the Rabdentse Ruins,
an archaeological survey site which was once the capital
of Sikkim. Sitting on the crumbling wall of the ancient
palace I feel as if I have returned home. My other life
back in Australia seems merely a dream. Sitting motionless,
with a mind as large and empty as the universe, it seems
as if I projected that other form of myself into being
– that form rushing around in the business of
life, raising children, working for a living, sipping
lattes in beachside cafes for fun – my only thought:
"How can that be real when all I want is to be
still, at peace, here in the mountains?" In a moment
like this, you realise that a journey to the mountains
has really been a journey within, and that wherever
you are this stillness at the centre of your being remains.
Nature constantly presents us with experiences and
pictures of profound beauty which instantly reawaken
our faith and connection to our world. Moments such
as these restore our enthusiasm for life, inspire us
to live better, do more, make the world a better place!
It is these moments of inspiration strung together which
give life its meaning, and it is our perception of these
moments and our ability to notice beauty in the world
which determines our happiness. There are potentially
many beautiful pictures in life yet, in all our busyness
and preoccupations, it is quite likely that we walk
right by without even noticing. When we travel for inspiration
we make a point of noticing. The world is an amazing
place, to see what we can of it with our eyes, to experience
it through our own senses, to revere it and respect
it, is part of what being a human on Planet Earth is
all about.
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